There were enough sites (smells and sounds) to keep us busy, we ran from place-to-place all weekend. Luckily, we found the city easy to navigate. The people were friendly and helpful - Chase definitely got her fair share of attention. We were there in the “low” (a.k.a. cold) season; the skies were grey, and heavy with pollution. I can’t imagine what it must be like there during the Summer months when the air is still and temps top 30 centigrade.
Day One
We caught the first flight from
Next stop – The Big Goose Pagoda, a Ming style building built by Emperor Gaozong around AD 648 (Qing Dynasty), in memory of his deceased mother.
We then decided to go for a little stroll to see the locals in action. We stumbled across a calligraphy exhibition and a fun park, and a guy who created edible spun sugar designs.
Then we hopped a cab, which drove us right through the City Wall, en route to the
The mango man:
Next stop was the
From there, we took a right and found ourselves in the Muslim quarter, the home of the Hui community. There were narrow lanes, old mud brick houses and lots of little shops selling “antiques,” miscellaneous goods and food. I was struck by the number of birds in cages. They hung from (and between) the street lamps and filled the air with bird song. It was so lovely.
After this, we headed back to the hotel – exhausted. Ordered room service and watched some bad, American cable movies.
Day Two
We awoke early and met Lucy, our Terracotta Warriors tour guide, in the lobby of our hotel. Lucky for us, we were the only ones in the tour group.
The Terracotta Warriors were discovered in 1974 by three peasant farmers who were digging a well (they are over 2,000 years old). Our tour guide indicated there were 8,000 warriors, but my lonely planet guidebook stated there were 7,000 figures. (I’m not sure how they are counting them, as many still remain buried and broken under layers of clay and soil.)
What I found most impressive was that each figure was different. Each was made by hand. Some were tall, some were short, some were fat, and some were skinny. Some were Northern Chinese (characterized by high, sharp, cheek bones), while some were Southern Chinese. Each had unique head, heart and life lines on the palms of their hands. Each was originally painted brilliant colors. (When the Chinese first found the warriors, they still had the original color, which sadly faded within a week of being exposed to sunlight. As the Chinese have not been able to find a way to preserve the color, they have left more than half covered by dirt and clay).
Tragically, all of the warriors (except the one pictured below) were broken and burned shortly after the Emperor Qin Shi Huang (whose tomb has yet to be excavated) passed away. (As an aside, Emperor Qin Shi Huang was a very interesting man. While his was the shortest reign of all Chinese Emperors, he accomplished a great deal – from ordering the construction of the Great Wall to standardizing
Originally built to protect him in his afterlife, the warriors were destroyed by peasants fearing they would come to life after the death of the Emperor. Each warrior held real swords, spears, etc. – almost all were taken by the revolting peasants (surprisingly they found a couple which had been left behind – and they were still sharp!)
All in all it was simply amazing. I’m so happy we went before the “international village” was completed. The “village” was comprised of empty buildings, which will soon be filled with more shops selling terracotta replicas, over-priced restaurants and even hotels.
From there, we went to see the natural
...and then back to the hotel (we stopped at Hee Hee’s Noodle House to pick up lunch).
Exhausted, we all took a rather long nap and when we awoke, we decided to try to fit in a couple more sights.
We hopped a cab to get onto the City Wall – it was closed when we arrived. So back to the hotel we went. Later, we decided to try a restaurant in the city. Hubs had seen a lot of Spanish in the markets, so we decided to try our luck at a Spanish restaurant. The concierge indicated there was actually An Austin House restaurant – so we thought Tex Mex, let’s give it a whirl. Well, when we got there, it was actually an Oyster House (think I’ll pass on Oysters served in the center of
Day Three
Awoke early. Went back to the City Wall. Paid to walk on top, but should have walked through the park that is just below it. Much more going on.
Next we tried to catch a cab to a local craft market. Sadly, our cab driver could not find it. So we ended up getting out and taking another stroll, this time through what I can only call the Chinese version of the
From there, we went back to the hotel, rested our aching feet (and backs – my, my Chase is growing!), checked out and made our way back to the airport.
What a great weekend!
Last night there was the most incredible wind storm. I have no idea how fast the wind was blowing, but it literally ripped through
Many people lost their power and water. We were lucky. Everything remained on - perhaps our building was powered by generators.
This morning, I was one of only two parents who braved the wind and cold to take their child to Gymboree. The staff told me other parents had already called in order to cancel the classes scheduled for later this afternoon.
Bless Punky. She was an hour late, but walked most of the way because the buses were not working.
Chase’s language teacher told me the winds were a 12, on the Chinese scale of wind measurement. I asked her what the highest number was. She said 12. She thinks the winds were considered hurricane level.
6 March: Settling In
I mention this only because meeting people has been so hard.
After visiting a number of small, boutique shops, we braved the underground shopping maze. It was huge, with no natural air or light and smells of Chinese food. (I would not venture there without a seasoned, Chinese speaking guide. No amount of breadcrumbs could help you find your way out of that place.)
On the way to the underground shopping maze, we passed a couple people trying to sell puppies. It was freezing cold and the puppies were shivering in cages and cardboard boxes. I wanted to scoop them all up and yell at the people who were trying to sell them. Feeling sad and helpless, I started daydreaming about starting an animal shelter, buying acres and acres of land and just letting animals run free. Walking past those dogs was one of the hardest things I’ve had to do in a long time.
It just breaks my heart to think about them.
Then we joined up with a couple I met at Starbucks (with an 8-month-old) for an Indian dinner (Chase loved the dancers). On Sunday, we met Nicolas (Chase’s German boyfriend) and his parents for coffee and then headed to the Shangri-La for dim sum with another couple. From there, we hurried home to pick up and start cooking dinner before one of our neighbors arrived.
The good things from this weekend: I now have good cheese in the house, I know where to find good Western clothes, a Chinese doctor, and I think we’ve found another possible babysitter for Chase.
8 March
It has been days and days and days.
I might as well be in
I feel so disconnected.
I think I am addicted to the Internet.
I think we all are.
I blame it on the fact that I am a “communicator.”
But I’m quite positive that even the most introverted have a deep connection to the thing.
I have tried to will it to work. No dice.
And so I must wait…
Patience is a virtue, right?
Last night Hubs and I went to a German restaurant. The restaurant was pretty good overall, offering plenty of sausages and good beer on tap.
The most remarkable thing about last night wasn't that we found a good alternative to dumplings. We saw Chase dance for the first time.
There was a Philippina girl cover band (dressed like slutty school girls), that started performing at around 8.45. They were a bit provocative - swinging their hips around, etc. (Asian cover bands can be quite hilarious to watch).
Chase LOVED them. She could not stop rocking back and forth. She was all smiles. Hubs and I couldn't stop laughing.
We only stayed for two songs, but it was clear Chase wanted to dance the night away...
Today I had my first Chinese painting class. It was AMAZING.
The instructor just happens to be a nationally recognized Chinese painter and calligrapher - his teacher was taught by one of the "greats." (I had no idea until today). So while Chase was busy with her Chinese tutor, I learned how to to paint shrimp.
He also gave me a Chinese name, which sounds like
His (now hanging on our fridge)...
Today's Gymboree music class was madness. But I couldn't stop laughing.
There were about 3x as many kids (maybe because it is getting warmer?), so the classroom was hot, hot, hot. The usual instructor (a Mary Poppins from the
Which brings me to the madness. So while the Chinese opera singer is singing "three little kittens have lost their mittens," the room was getting warmer and warmer. The kids were all over the place. Some were happy, while a couple were crying. By the end of the class, Chase's cheeks were bright pink and her hair was wet and starting to stick to her head (poor dear).
Long Long (all Chinese babies have double names), my favorite little Chinese boy, who looks like a drunken sailor when we walks, kept me laughing. He's not afraid of the big white woman, like some of the little kids. He is always dressed in designer labels (as is his mum).
Chase also met Vincent today. His mother is Chinese and his father is European. He's a cutie and his mom already told me that Chase is not allowed to have any boyfriends except Vincent. Totally cute.
And then, at the end of the class, I was invited to a neighbors flat for a play date this afternoon. Whoa! The Chinese women stick together, so I was surprised and delighted. Only problem is, she doesn't speak ANY English. (This will be interesting! I have to say, I don't know her name or her son's name - he was dressed in pink and yes, I thought he was a girl - my bad again!)
And finally, to make everything just slightly more comical, I have no pants that fit. My pants are all too big so I am constantly trying to pull them up when I sit down, so as not to expose anything to those looking on from behind. Naturally, when I stand up, they get all bunched up, so I have to pull them down. It's ridiculous. Meanwhile, most of the other moms are in Gucci.
I think it's time for a makeover!
As I start thinking about Chase's birthday, I can't help but think of the birthdays that my parents so lovingly pulled together for me.
I remember that one of my birthdays, long ago, was held on a farm. I don't remember much about it, except there were all sorts of games and a scavenger hunt for socks. I think the ones I found were florescent green (gotta love the 80's).
I also remember my father going to great lengths to throw "surprise parties" for me. And, while I sure appreciated it (thanks, Dad!), I never really liked having surprise parties.
There's just something about being an insecure little girl and having your e-n-t-i-r-e class attend a function hosted by your parents that is "like, sooooo embarrassing." This embarrassment, is of course heightened when boys you have crushes on are invited, attend, and you show up to your own party, in just-going-to-the-grocery-store clothes.
Now, as a parent, I can certainly understand the concept of a surprise party. I can see how fun it would be to plan. I can just imagine the look of surprise (aka shock and embarrassment) on my own little girl's face years from now. And of course, this would mean that I did a good job, because she never saw it coming.
And so, as I contemplate what kind of birthday party throwing parent I'm going to be - and what to do for Chase's first birthday - I realize that whether she likes it or not, her first birthday will, in fact, be a surprise party.
The funny thing is, I can tell her a thousand times, buy the presents and decorations in front of her, and she will still be surprised on the day. How fun is that? Maybe this will be the only surprise party I throw. Hmmm, maybe not - it's just too much fun.
Sorry little darling! Surprises are in your future. But don't worry, I'll be sure to drop hints, like "Sweetheart, why don't you wear that sparkly pink party dress to the grocery store."
